The speedboat skipping through the ancient canals of Venice is a
common plot device used in action flicks from “Casino Royale” to “The
Tourist.” But in order to capture a diplomat’s limo riddled with bullets
flying down narrow, cobblestone streets in a high-octane car chase,
Amazon Studios took to the city center of Trieste, Italy, for its
upcoming film “Heads of State.”
Trieste is located on the Gulf of Trieste, a 150km stone’s throw
across the Adriatic Sea from Venice and the Venetian Lagoon. Both
Northern Italian capitals, Venice and Trieste are the seats of the
Veneto and the Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions, respectively. But where
Venice is known as the epitome of European architectural romance,
Trieste remains well tucked into a thin strip of land bordering
Slovenia.
As Venice struggles to limit ship traffic and tourists from literally
collapsing its historic treasures into the sea, Trieste is a nearby
Italian city that’s ready to step into the spotlight.
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The cruise ships Silver Nova and Norwegian Viva docked at the Port of Trieste prior to their inaugural sailings. Photo Credit: Brittany Chrusciel
Venice has the canals. Trieste has the Adriatic coast.
The peerless charm of Venice is its circulatory system of canals.
With no cars or formal roads, visitors are forced to literally step into
local life on foot or join the slow-moving fray by gondola. You won’t
find this element of time travel in Trieste, where traffic is
unfortunately ubiquitous. But with its protected harbors giving way to
the Adriatic, Ionian and then Mediterranean seas, Trieste has secured
its place as a ship-building epicenter and burgeoning cruise port.
Fincantieri shipyard in neighboring Monfalcone has built more than
100 cruise ships across 18 brands since 1990. It’s estimated that one in
three cruise passengers sails aboard a Fincantieri-built ship. That
said, it makes sense that Trieste is among the first ports that some
passengers experience on an inaugural sailing.
With the cruise port just steps from the city center (the windows of
the Savoia Excelsior Palace hotel face the ships straight on), it’s a
wonder that Trieste is not more utilized as a port of call beyond an
infrequent embarkation destination. A preserved Roman theater dating to
the first century is located just a 10-minute walk from the port; art
museums can be found clustered only five minutes away. Eataly, the
renowned restaurant and Italian market, is on the water, is two minutes
from the dock. Gelato? Scoops are sold on every corner.
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A large Italian flag waves over the governor’s palace in the Piazza Unita d’Italia, Trieste’s gathering place. Photo Credit: Brittany Chrusciel
Venice has the Piazza San Marco. Trieste has the Piazza Unita d’Italia.
Venice’s St. Mark’s Square is the main piazza of the city, featuring a
bounty of landmarks including the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Basilica
and the Campanile. But with so many coveted sites concentrated in one
public square, the “drawing room of Europe” often feels more like an
overcrowded concert venue.
Trieste’s sprawling, waterfront Piazza Unita d’Italia (“Unity of
Italy”) is its main square. It’s at the very least where all of Trieste
comes together, meeting by the grand fountain for a coffee date or
casual conversation. Beneath a goliath Italian flag, strollers of the
square can admire the Austro-Hungarian architecture of Trieste City Hall
and the former headquarters of the Italia Marittima company. The piazza
has even served as a concert venue for a crowd of 15,000 Iron Maiden
fans in 2016, demonstrating its impressive size. But it’s more likely
you will stumble across friends and couples sipping Aperol spritzes at
the cafes lining the perimeter.
Harry’s Bar, an expat haven known for inventing the Bellini, calls
Venice its original home. But an expanded Harry’s concept is set right
on the piazza of Trieste, with a bar, bistro and pastry shop as well as
the fine dining establishment Harry’s Piccolo that has earned two
Michelin stars. For those who can’t bear to leave, Harry’s is
incorporated into the Grand Hotel Duchi D’Aosta, a Relais & Chateaux
property.
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A statue of Irish author James Joyce on the Ponte Rosso bridge crossing the Grand Canal. Photo Credit: Brittany Chrusciel
Venice had Henry James. Trieste had James Joyce.
American-British novelist Henry James, known for “The Portrait of a
Lady,” was not unique in his travels to Europe during the late-19th and
early-20th centuries. But it was Venice he travelled to time and again,
totaling nine years and the publication of “Italian Hours” in 1909.
Irish novelist James Joyce was born just a few decades later than
James, publishing “A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man” the year
that James died (1916). And while their names and the names of their
novels were similar, Joyce opted for Trieste as his own artistic escape.
Joyce first came here to teach English at the age of 23 in 1905 and
returned numerous times over the next 15 years.
Known as a “second Dublin” for the author, Trieste influenced much of
Joyce’s writing; it’s where he worked out the details for his most
famous characters, Molly and Leopold Bloom of “Ulysses.” It’s also where
both of his children were born. There are even words from the Triestine
dialect in “Finnegans Wake.” To learn about his literary impact,
visitors can find the small Joyce Museum, documenting his relationship
with Trieste. Take a photo with Joyce, whose statue is out on promenade
along the Ponte Rosso bridge over Trieste’s Grand Canal.
Venice has the spritz. Trieste has Prosecco.
Italy’s bitter orange Aperol spirit has taken off in popularity in
recent years. But it was a century ago in Venice that the idea of a
spritz – an aperitif of Prosecco, bitters and soda water – was
formulated.
While Venice can claim this refreshing cocktail in its many forms,
you can’t have a spritz without Prosecco, Italy’s iconic sparkling wine.
For that, you can trace production to nine provinces of the Veneto and
Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions. However, the name comes from the village
of Prosecco, located within the city limits of Trieste.
Italian wine has been regaled since ancient times, but the first
mention of Prosecco can be dated to the early 16th century. Early fans
of the “medicinal properties” of this region’s wine include Roman
philosopher and author Pliny the Elder, born around A.D. 23.
Today, visitors to Trieste can either take a daytrip to the
wine-growing region about two to three hours outside of the city or
simply enjoy a crisp glass at any bar or cafe. Two recommendations:
nondescript Gran Malabar, with hundreds of varietals, and Caffe
Tommaseo, the oldest cafe in Trieste.