On the heritage trail

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I have been on the Penang Heritage Trail twice. This is one of the special tours put together by the Penang Heritage Trust. On both occasions I went on the trishaw that winds through the heart of Georgetown, with both riders and passengers subject to the heat or rain and curious stares of the local people. But this time, the hotel's marketing communications manager told me it would be a different kind of tour. This trail is arranged by the hotel as part of its CEI (Convention, Exhibition and Incentive) programme for its guests. It's different in that one, it is in an air-conditioned coach and, two, the route in-cludes a city trail. The tour lasts three and a half hours, including lunch. On the list of the sites are the Reclining Buddha, Burmese Temple, Fort Cornwallis, Little India, Khoo Kong Si and the Penang Museum. A SLICE OF THAILAND We start at 11am with the first stop at the Wat Chaiya Mangkalaram at Lorong Burma. This Buddhist temple of Thai architecture houses a 33-m gold-plated Reclining Buddha, believed to be one of the longest in the world. Then it's a quick hop to the Burmese temple across the road. Onward to Fort Cornwallis or Lebuh Light, so called because it was built on the site of Francis Light's historic landing in 1786. Originally a wooden stockade, it has been replaced by a concrete structure. Here you will see the famous Dutch cannon. There's a belief that if a woman wishes to get pregnant all she has to do is to touch the cannon. I can't vouch for the authencity of this, but there is certainly no lack of women touching the cannon. Next stop: Little India. Here is the famous Mahamariamman Temple. Built in 1833, it is the oldest Hindu temple in Penang. It is decorated with intricately crafted dragons and stone lions which are said to be the temple's guardians. But the "jewel in the crown' is the jewel-encrusted statue of Lord Subramaniam. We then move on to the famed Khoo Kongsi in Cannon Square. This is the finest example of a miniature clan village from the 19th Century with its association building, traditional theatre, rowhouses to accommodate clan members and a magnificent clan temple built in 1902. But I was disappointed as the temple was under renovation - pity as you cannot appreciate the beauty of the Khoo Kongsi by looking at it from the courtyard. HISTORY ON DISPLAY Then it's on to the final stop, the Penang State Museum. Here, you can see history through the interesting displays. Like the Nyonya and Baba wedding ceremony, a Chinese kopitam (coffeeshop) complete with its ancient bread-toaster and coffee-making equipment, and a "mobile" noodle hawker who pedals from door to door. Although not part of the tour, two of must-sees are the Syed Alatas mansion, "a 19th century Straits eclectic Malay house" and the Cheong Fatt Sze mansion or the Blue mansion. The house was built in the 1880s by Cheong, who was known as China's last mandarin and first capitalist and the Rockefeller of the East. INNER CITY TRAILS OF GEORGE TOWN The Penang Heritage Trust also organises three special walking tours called the "Inner City Trails of George Town". • Little India, Spice Trail: Start from PHT office and walk past the Kuan Yin Temple (Goddess of Mercy Temple), visit Sri Mahamariamman Temple, walk through Little India. • Heritage Trail 2 & Cheong Fatt Tze: Start from PHT office and walk on to Kuan Yin Temple, St George's Church and the Museum. Walk through town to the Hainan temple, Hong Kong shoe shop and end up at Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. Tour of the mansion starts at 11am. Tour ends here at 12.30pm. • Street of Harmony & Historical Enclave: Walk from PHT office to Kuan Yin Temple and onto Kapitan Kling Mosque, Yap Kongsi Area (Armenian Street area where Anna & the King was shot). Then to Khoo Kongsi, the Acheen Street Mosque, Syed Alatas Mansion and end at the Dr Sun Yat Sen's Penang base.
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